SELAMAT DATANG

Monday, May 31, 2010

NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF RABBIT MEAT


Nutritional Value of Rabbit Meat:
by Robert Oni


Average Nutritional Content of Rabbit meat is:

Calories – 300g (18% from Fat, 82% form protein & 0% from
Carbohydrate);

Total Fat – 4.1g (2.3g Lipid Fat, 0.7g

Saturated Fat, 0.6g Monosaturated Fat, 0.4g polysaturated Fat
& 86mg Cholesterol;

Sodium – 40mg; Carbohydrate – 0g; Dietary Fat – 0g; Sugar – 0;

Protien – 41.9g,
Calcium – 12mg;
Water – 58.9;
Ash – 1.1;
Alcohol & Caffeine – 0.

Nutritional Value of Edible Meats:

Rabbit (% Protein – 20.8, % Fat – 4.5, Calories/Ib – 795)
Veal (% Protein – 19.1, % Fat – 12, Calories/Ib – 840)
Chicken (% Protein – 20.0, % Fat – 17.9, Calories/Ib – 810)
Turkey (% Protein – 20.1, % Fat – 20, Calories/Ib – 1,190)
Lamb (% Protein – 15.7, % Fat – 27.7, Calories/Ib – 1,420)
Beef (% Protein – 16.3, % Fat – 28.0, Calories/Ib – 1,440)
Duck (% Protein – 16.0, % Fat – 28.6, Calories/Ib – 1,015)
Pork (% Protein – 11.9, % Fat – 45, Calories/Ib – 2,050)



The flavor of rabbit meat is what actually draws people to it.

Its organoleptic properties are tenderness, and juiceness. Its
flavor is not strong; it is comparable to the taste of turkey. Its is a
white meat and it has been found to provide good health and
prevent excess fat, heart diseases, high cholesterol, high blood
pressure, diabetics and cancer among those who eat it.

Robert Oni
African Exports - African-Exports.lyonscraft.com

Monday, May 24, 2010

"PET MANIA" - BAKA-BAKA ARNAB HIASAN SEDIA UNTUK DIJUAL



"ASSALAMUAL
AIKUM"


SALAM SEJAHTERA BUAT RAKAN-RAKAN PENTERNAK DAN PENCINTA ARNAB SEKELIAN

DI SINI HAMBA INGIN MENAWARKAN BAKA-BAKA ARNAB HIASAN UNTUK DIJUAL KEPADA YANG BERMINAT

ANGGUN DAN MEMPERSONAKAN

BERIKUT ADALAH SENARAI HARGA TERKINI DI PASARAN:




REX UMUR 2 BULAN++ (R)
- RM 260 SEEKOR
- RM 500 SEPASANG



HOLLAND LOP UMUR 2 BULAN++ (HL 1)
- RM 260 SEEKOR
- RM 500 SEPASANG


HOLLAND LOP UMUR 3 BULAN KE ATAS (HL 2)
- RM 380 SEEKOR
- RM 750 SEPASANG




TEDDY BEAR (TD) & WOODY TOY (WT)
- RM 200 SEEKOR
- RM 380 SEPASANG



LION HEAD (LH)
- RM 80 SEEKOR
- RM 140 SEPASANG



ANGGORA (AG)
- RM 190 SEEKOR
-RM 360 SEPASANG


NETHERLAND DWARF
(ND)

- RM 200 SEEKOR
- RM 380 SEPASANG


KEPADA YANG BERMINAT TU, SILA HUBUNGI DEN DI 012-911 6165.
STOK AKAN DIAMBIL BERDASARKAN TEMPAHAN.
SILA NYATAKAN NAMA DAN LOKASI ANDA.
PENGAMBILAN BOLEH DIBUAT BILA STOK TIBA DI :

NO. 13, TAMAN BANGI INDAH
BATU 6, JALAN BANGI INDAH 7
43000 PEKAN BANGI LAMA
KAJANG, SELANGOR.




Tuesday, May 11, 2010

BICARA ARNAB - PERJALANAN HIDUPKU



Assalamualaikum......


Lama dah rasanya tak bercerita kat sini, asyik cut n paste je info2 dari internet berkenaan arnab ni. So, ni just nak sembang pasal diri sendiri jerrr........

Emmmm......nampaknya lagi sebulan maka genaplah setahun den memulakan semula hobi penternakan arnab ni......Berbagai2 onak dan ranjau den tempuhi dalam tempoh tersebut. Ada yang manis dan ada yang pahit. Dari 3 ekor arnab Malacca Cute yang dibeli dari Bro Joe dan seekor Fuzzy Lop yang dibeli dari Bro Nizam PurpleRabbit sehinggala sekarang ni yang telah berkembang biak....dan entah berapa ratus ekor dah yang den dah jual sepanjang waktu tersebut...den pun dah tak ingat. Jualan merangkumi samada dari baka sendiri ataupun dari rakan taulan......

Dan ingin den nyatakan di sini, walaupun baru hampir hampir setahun den menternak arnab, tetapi hasil jualan yang bermula dari bulan Februari 2010 tahun ini sehingga sekarang, telah mencecah ribuan ringgit.......tapi kesemuanya itu bukanlah milik den......Ini kerana untuk waktu ini den terpaksa bertindak menjual arnab2 dari rakan taulan je.....dan sedikit2 dari baka2 den sendiri.........

Tapi cubalah tuan-tuan bayangkan sekiranya arnab-arnab yang terjual tu daripada ladang atau reban tuan-tuan sendiri!!!!! Jangan terkejut dengan hasilnya......Tujuan den menyatakan perkara ini bukanlah untuk riak atau menunjuk-nunjuk, tetapi sekadar untuk memberi penjelasan dan gambaran kepada rakan-rakan, terutamanya yang masih tercari-cari pekerjaan dan tak tahu apa yang hendak diusahakan bagi mencari mata pencarian sampingan atau tetap......

Apa yang den nak nyatakan di sini ialah.....


"Penternakan Arnab Boleh Menjana Ekonomi Keluarga".


Bagaimana????

Untuk memulakan sesuatu projek penternakan arnab, tidak semestinya kita melaburkan modal yang terlampau besar. Saya sendiri berasal dari orang yang tidak mampu langsung kalau nak diukurkan untuk memulakan penternakan ini, tapi apa yang penting adalah nawaitu dan semangat kita. Pada awal penternakan saya hanya mempunyai 5 pasang anak-anak arnab berumur lingkungan 2 bulan dari baka perhiasan. Itupun dari baka biasa jerrr.......Lion head dan kampung. Dari situ saya belajar dan cuba membiakkannya. Awalnya agak perit juga, dengan pengetahuan yang cetek, saya banyak merujuk kepada otai-otai arnab terutamanya di Melaka. Ini kerana banyak nostalgia di Negeri Melaka sewaktu saya menuntut dalam bidang pertanian di Sekolah Menengah Teknik Bukit Piatu Melaka pada tahun 80an dulu. Bak kata orang; Tempat jatuh lagikan dikenang, inikan pula tempat bermain dan menuntut ilmu. Boleh kata saban hari jugakla dok menganggu Bro Joe, Nizam dan Newhillz dengan talipon. Tapi alhamdulillah...mereka ni semua tak kedekut ilmu...apa yang mereka tahu, semuanya dicurahkan. Mengambil contoh tauladan dari merekalah, maka hari ini, saya bertekad untuk melakukan perkara yang sama kepada rakan-rakan baru yang mula hendak mengenali dunia penternakan arnab.


Ok! Berbalik kepada topik asal, "Bagaimana hendak Bermula???"

Seperti kata saya tadi, nak bermula bukannya susah sangat. Yang penting, kenal pasti terlebih dahulu matlamat kita. Kalau saya tanya perkara ini, macam-macam jawapan yang akan keluar. Tetapi dari segi perniagaan, antara perkara yang perlu kita kenal pasti, adalah:

1. Budget;
2. Baka;
3. Kelengkapan;
4. Pasaran dan Pemasaran.


Perjalanan Projek


Fuhhhh!!!! Ni persoalan yang paling berat ni nak fikir. Den dulu, seluk-seluk poket tengok ada RM 200 jerr.....korek sana, korek sini.......bodek orang umah.....bodek duit tabung anak......hehehehe.....dapatlah dalam RM 800. Apa den leh buat dengan RM 800 ni??? Den pun mulala buat kira-kira "Mat Jenin". Congak punya congak, survey punya survey.......maka den pun membahagikan kepada 3 bahagian. 1 bahagian untuk baka arnab sebanyak RM 350, 1 bahagian untuk logistik; RM 200 dan 1 bahagian lagi untuk pembinaan reban.; RM 250. Bermula dari situ start cari info kat mana nak dapatkan baka ni???? Waktu tu kebetulan dah lama dok melayan Forum "Bicara Jutawan.com".

Masa tu banyak sembang pasal Cili dan pertanian jerr.....sekali-sekala menjengah kat thread-thread merapu.....hehehe.......Tapi, sekali tu dah nak jadi jodoh, termasukla den kat thread "Mari marahkan Sniper" tapi dengan berpantun. Dalam dok kutuk mengutuk, bergurau-senda dalam thread tu, maka terkutuklah sorang mamat ni yang dok kat Melaka. Sampai nak berpencak silat, berkeris-keris dan lastik melastikla kitarang nihhhh.......wargghh!!warghh!!warghh!!! Kelakau tul time tu.......Last-last nak jadi kawan, maka masing2 pun meng'introduce'kan diri........Nak tahu sapa mamat tu.......tu haa....yang dok kat Semabok, Melaka tu.....siapa lagi kalau tak Bro Nasir aka Joe Medula yang den hormati.....

Start dari situ hampir tiap-tiap minggu den turun Melaka menuntut ilmu. Dari Bro Joe , den mula mengenali rakan taulan lain seperti Bro Nizam, Newhillz, Syah, Aes, Hokmama, Aizat dan lain-lain.

Aisehhh....dah melencong jadi cerita nostalgia lak......K,k,k, berbalik kita ke topik asal.

So, dari budget RM 350 tu maka den pun membelila 3 pasang arnab dari Bro Joe dan 2 pasang dari Bro Nizam. Semuanya baby-baby lagi.....pastu bawak balik ke rumah......sekali baru teringat daaa.....sangkar lum buat lagi....adeeeehhhh......"Ni contoh ni jangan korang ikut lak. Pesanan dari Kerajaan Arnab.....Buat sangkar dulu, baru beli arnab"

Maka arakiannya, sampai je dari Melaka tengahari tu, den ngan anak bini pun bergegas ke hardware. Beli 'angle ion' 8 batang, jaring mata punai 2 gulung. Gedebak-gedebuk rabak RM 232........Tapi takpala, semangat punya pasal, malam tu jugak den mengerjakannya. Dekat pukul 5.00 pagila dok bertukang.......sampai Tok Siak dah nak gi surau lerrr......Kenala sedas...."Ekau buang tebiat ko jang"......huhuhu....

Tak serik, lepas subuh, den tidur jap......Tak la kojap jugak, kul 10 pagi baru sedar......sambung balik bertukang. Maka pada petang bersejarah tu, siaplah sudah sangkar arnab den sebanyak 8 cell, setinggi 2 tingkat. Maka, petang tu jugakla....arnab-arnab den merasmikannya.....

K, apa yang nak den ceritakan kek sini........errrr....kira "Moral of the storyLa" kata orang kampung. Bagi abang-abang....kakak-kakak....adik-adik......"Bermulalah walaupun dengan hanya 10 ekor arnab di belakang rumah anda, katakan yang berumur 2 bulan.....tapi, saksikanlah hasilnya selepas 6 bulan kemudian....Itu jika kita bermula dari pembelian anak2 arnab. Sekiranya kita bermula dari pembelian induk arnab yang dah boleh dibiakkannn........emmmm......Kira Rahmat Allah lah pastu......"

Nak bermula tak perlu besar-besaran, apa yang penting kesungguhan, minat dan jangan mudah berputus asa......Memang tak mudah untuk mudah.......Banyak ranjaunya pada permulaan pembelajaran dan untuk mencapai kemahiran.....Tapi percayalah segala-galanya akan terbalas kalau kita ada kesungguhan dan minat.......

Emmm.....den terpaksa stop kat sini dulu buat sementara waktu....time ambil anak kat sekolah dah ni......kalau ikutkan panjang lagi benda nak dicoretkan..........nanti kita sembang lagi......Wassallam.........


Friday, May 7, 2010

WEANING

Weaning

Weaning Your Litter

Well, after a tough experience with the whole mating, birth, and raising deal, now it's almost over. Weaning the litter isn't hard, but there are some things that you really have to do, or you'll get bad results.

If you remove the whole litter at once too early, the doe could get caked udders from not expressing enough milk from her full milk glands. I remove my young at about 2 months. With very large litters, like 8 or 9 babies, you can remove the bucks first and then the does. When you wean the litter off, be prepared to give each baby its own cage. With smaller rabbits, around 2-4 pounds, expect to have 1-4 babies. With medium sized rabbits, around 5-9 pounds, expect to have around 5-7 babies. With very large rabbits 10+ pounds, you may have up to twelve babies. Because rabbits only have eight nipples, all the babies may not get fed enough. If some babies were not growing well, you could foster over about four babies.

When the babies are on their own, treat them like any other adult rabbit. Feed them what your seniors eat. And at about 2 1/2 to 3 months old, you may want to tattoo them.

Tattooing

Top of the Page

Ear tattooing is for show rabbits only. It is a permanent mark in the ear that gives the rabbit identification at a rabbit show. You can pick any ear number you want, there's no list of taken ear numbers or anything. I actually went to a show where there were four rabbits with the same ear number! Tattooing is sort of like getting your ear pierced. It gives the rabbit a little stinging pain for a second, and then it goes away. It is done with pliers that have letter and number pieces you insert that are spelled in little sharp spike things. Don't worry, it's better than it sounds. After squeezing in the spikes in the rabbit's ear with the pliers, there are little indents in the rabbit's ear where ink is placed and it forms the identification number.

An ear tattoo of one of my rabbits. It is a series of dots forming letters and numbers. As you can see, this rabbit's ear tattoo is SD, for the initials of his name, Sunny Day. Since I raise Polish rabbits, most of my rabbit's ear tattoos are from P3 to P8. I have two that have bigger ears and their ear numbers are LP1 and LP2, for Laura's Polish 1 and Laura's Polish 2. Most people don't know how to tattoo their own rabbits, and I've never done it myself. If you are in 4-H, then ask your rabbit club advisor to tattoo your rabbits for you. If you go to any shows, ask the people at the sign-in table if a registrar is going to be there. If there is going to be one there, you can pay $1.00 to have your rabbit tattooed. You cannot show a rabbit in an ARBA show without an ear number.

Well, that's a wrap! I have listed some excellent resources for you for further rabbit care and other information about this subject. compared to all there is to learn, this was a brief overview. I encourage you to check out some of these sites and books for resources and just for fun. I hope you have allot of fun with your new baby rabbits and I hope you find the hobby interesting and fun. If you have any comments on my site, PLEASE email me! I need to know what you think.

NOTE: This was a special project for 4-H by Laura R. The email button is below this, and she would appreciate your opinion or her work. Feel free to contact her.

LITTER GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT


Litter Growth and Development



As the Litter Grows...

The litters grows very quickly, there's no doubt, and at about two weeks old, all of the babies will have their eyes and ears open. Do not try to force their eyes open. At about three weeks all the babies will be hopping around the cage with their mother. At this time you will have to give mother and children several cups of food a day, because now the litter will begin to eat solid pellets. Remember, they do whatever the mother does. You need to feed them enough so that they are never out of food. You want these babies to be big and healthy.

As the litter gets older, they will not feed off of their mother anymore, but they still have allot to learn from their mother. If you have your animals on water bottles which I strongly advise, you need to add another water bottle onto the cage. Don't worry about the babies not knowing how to use the bottle, they learn very quickly from their mother and try to do anything she does. Just make sure you put the bottle low enough for the babies to reach.

At about 1 1/2 to 2 months, the babies will be ready to wean. I usually wait until 2 months, because the longer they are with their mother, the better. There's not much to say in this section, but the things I did say are very important.

On to Weaning!

GESTATION AND BIRTH

Gestation and Birth


Topics:

Gestation: the Most Confusing Stage

The reason I say this is because it is very hard to tell if your doe is pregnant. There is even an event that can cause a doe to act like she is going to have babies up to the point of trying to build a nest, but no babies appear. I'll explain everything.

How Long Gestation Lasts

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Have you ever heard the saying "[It multiplies] like a rabbit"? It's true. A rabbit's gestation lasts for only a month. Yes, you heard me. Around four weeks. And the time flies by. The most important thing you can do while breeding is to keep records. You need to record when you bred the rabbits, keep track of time until 28 days have gone by, and then put in a nest box and bedding (inside the nest box, that is). If the rabbit doesn't have babies in 36 days, call the vet, because the babies can't stay inside the doe. It will make her very, very sick and die.

A typical wooden nest box.

Telling if She's Pregnant

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This is just about the hardest part of the gestation issue. Something that will give you a good hint about if she's going to have babies soon is if she starts carrying hay around in her mouth trying to make a nest out of it. You should, however, try to figure out if she's pregnant before that. People will tell you many ways to see if a rabbit's pregnant or not, but only one way really works. Palpation. Palpation is an art of the skilled. My mother can't even do it. (I can, though.) I will explain palpation in a minute, but first, I want to warn you about some really corny pregnancy tests.

Hoax Pregnancy Tests

The first corny test I'll explain is called check mating. This is when you put in the doe with the buck again 2 weeks after the first mating. This is what is supposed to happen: if the doe is pregnant from the first mating, she will refuse the buck. If she is not, she will take him. This can be very bad, because the doe can accept the buck even when she is pregnant, and then she would have two litters that were two different ages inside of her, and since they would both be born at the same time, one litter would be too old and die, and the other would be too young and die. Also, the doe could refuse the buck even if she wasn't pregnant.

The second way that doesn't really work is weighing your rabbit just to see if it is pregnant. It is very good to weigh her solely for records, but it just doesn't do the trick when you are trying to see if she is pregnant or not. I've had does that gained weight while not pregnant after being mated, and pregnant does that actually lost an ounce or two. Most just stay the same weight throughout most of the gestation period. You also can't tell if their stomach gets bigger, because, to tell the truth, it doesn't.

Palpation

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Palpation is the best way of telling if a doe is pregnant or not. This is the method of feeling her abdomen to see if there are any babies inside. For beginners, this method is most easily done at two weeks after breeding or more. I will explain how it's done in the following list, with assistants of pictures.

  • Take out the rabbit and place it on a surface with high traction, such as a carpet.
  • Hold the rabbit back on it's hindquarters so it doesn't back up while you are trying to palpate it.
  • Reach with your other hand (it should be your dominant hand, if you are right-handed, use your right hand and vise versa) underneath the rabbit's abdomen.
  • Start squeezing and pinching the rabbit's abdomen between your fingers and your thumb between the last rib of the rabbit's rib cage and the pelvic bone. At around two weeks of gestation, the baby bunnies should feel like little marbles. At three to three and a half weeks, they should feel longer and you may even be able to distinguish their heads from their bodies.
  • NOTE: The reason why many people have a hard time palpating is because they are afraid of squeezing to hard, because they think it will hurt the babies or the mother. Well, it doesn't, because of a bubble-like sac around each baby called the amniotic sac, which is a small pouch of fluid in which a baby rabbit develop. You can squeeze pretty hard, and the rabbits will come to no harm.


Birth and Development

MATING


Mating, the Essential Ingredient

Mating, of course, is the key action to all of raising a litter. Without this action, nothing is going to happen! Before you mate, look at the previous chapter of my site, Selecting mates.

Mating is pretty simple, but it does need some explaining.


The Procedure

The first step to mating is to check both rabbits, as explained in Selecting Mates. But the second step takes more action. I will explain the mating procedure.

After checking the rabbits, take the doe out of her cage and insert her into the buck's cage. You will see the buck becoming interested in the doe. If the doe starts fighting with the buck, remove the doe so as not to hurt the buck. If need be, put the doe in the cage rear end first and hold her down yourself. She shouldn't cause a problem, but if she really doesn't cooperate, you may want to find another doe.

If the doe cooperates, however, you should see the buck mounting her. To confirm that the buck has penetrated her, watch him. If he makes a stifled squeal and/or hard grunting noise and falls to the side, he has made contact. Let him do this as many times as he can. This will give the doe an extra chance of taking than if you just let him do it twice and then take her out.

After you take the doe out, look at her external sex organ. If it has some whitish-clear liquid on it, the mating should have been a success. I have had n experience, however, when the doe was mated three times and has that liquid there (by the way, this liquid is called semen), and she still did not become pregnant, so you can't totally rely on this affirmation strategy. Put the doe back in her cage. For a much better chance of a nice, big litter, mate the doe again the next day for usually super results. Just do the same thing all over again. Believe me, sometimes it's a great help.

BREEDING RABBIT(PEMBIAKAN ARNAB)


Hello! Welcome to Selecting Mates

This section of the site is all about selecting the pair of rabbits you are mating. This is one of the most important issues in rabbit breeding, and it is also more complicated than you might think. Don't just whip out a buck and a doe and smack them together, there's allot more to it.

Checking the Health of Your Rabbits

Before mating, check is the gender of both rabbits. If you stick a doe in with a doe, or a buck in with a buck, the results won't be very productive. Also, if you cannot tell what gender the rabbit is because you can't really see it, the rabbit is too young to breed. I will show you the external sex organs of both male and female.


Also before mating, check the overall health of both rabbits, because if they have anything wrong with them, such as contagious diseases, the rabbit you are mating it to could catch the disease from its mate. Also, you want to have the healthiest doe possible, because it's hard work raising a litter, and she needs to be in top condition, and also because the health of the babies rests upon the mother quite often. Common rabbit diseases that you would easily noticed and you should check for before mating are:

  • Snuffles or a runny nose
  • Genital discharge of any kind
  • Ear mites (Ear canker)
  • Skin mange or sores on the skin

Also, you must examine both the mate's genital areas before mating. Some states of the outer sex organs will tell you how easily this pair will mate and successfully produce a litter.

Female-when you look at the female, you should primarily look at the color of the external sex organ. If it is light pink or purple, you can still mate her, but she probably won't take as easily as she will if her sex organ is bright pink or red. Females should be 5 months old before mating, preferably 6 months.

Male-when you look at the male, both testicles should be fully descended and full, not shriveled up, as they sometimes get in very cold or hot weather or in older years. The penis should be pink and healthy looking. Males should be at least 5 months old before mating, preferably 6 months.

Genetic Disorders

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Some things that can go wrong in a rabbit are caused by genetics. A very good example is a disorder called malocclusion, the misalignment of the teeth. This is easily noticed if you check your rabbits frequently. It can cause the rabbit difficulty in eating, pain, and even death. If one of the parents has this disorder, the genes will be passed on to the young and up to 50-75% of the litter could be born with dominant genes for malocclusion, and develop it during youth. Any other babies in that litter will carry the recessive genes for it, and are viable to pass them on to their own young.


Another genetic problem is terrible motherhood, which often results in the death of some, most, or all of the litter born to a mother with this trait. It isn't a disease, but it is very bad to carry in your stock. What you should do is before buying the rabbit, ask if it has had any litters and were they successful. If the rabbit has not had any litters, and she is of good show type, buy her anyway and find out for yourself. If she is a terrible mother the first time and kills her babies for no reason, do not mate her again, because she will give this trait to any live does she produces. If she is a good mother, but not the greatest show doe, keep her anyway. You ALWAYS need a reliable mother on hand. Even if a good mother sometimes injures her young because she was disturbed or on accident (like stepping on them), or doesn't feed them, well, mistakes happen and it doesn't mean she'll keep doing that every time.

Complimentary Characteristics

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If you are breeding show rabbits, this is a very important issue if you want to have good rabbits. The reason is this: almost all of a rabbit's aesthetic and physical characteristics are genetic. By selectively selecting two rabbits who's features put together would make a better rabbit, you have made a big step in making your stock better.

A very important thing to do before trying to select the best rabbits is to research your breed in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. Every rabbit breeder should have this, as it is the most important research tool for finding out how your breed is supposed to look. I didn't know about my breed before I purchased any rabbits, so I ended up getting some bad deals. I learned the hard way, but you don't have to. Also: talk to other breeders of the breed you are interested in, and ask them everything you need to know. Go to rabbit shows and ask around for the most renowned names of breeders for your breed. Ask them about things, and they should give you some good answers. Beware though: not everyone will say the same thing.

One of the most important issues in characteristics is color (that is, in most breeds). When talking about rabbits, "color" refers to everything except white. White is referred to as a variety only, while colors are referred to as both colors and varieties. Some breeds, like the Californian, the Florida White, and the two Hotot breeds' quality don't depend on coloring at all, but most breeds do. I raise Polish and color is very important for them. Here's an example of color improvement by breeding: Say I have a blue rabbit who's color s too light for the Standard. I would breed her to a nice, dark black rabbit. This would make any blue offspring in the litter have a darker color. Not dark enough yet? I would keep breeding blacks to my blues, and sooner or later, the change would be very evident.

You should also watch out for complimentary characteristics in body type issues. Since my breed, Polish, has a rounded head, that's what I would want in my stock. Say I had a rabbit who had excellent characteristics everywhere except her head. Her head is too pointy for a Polish. I would breed her to a buck with a very round head, and the heads of the offspring would be rounder than their mother's was. Again, if the change isn't evident enough, keep breeding together the roundest heads you have. Purchase new rabbits, even! These are the things you must do to eventually have good rabbits.

If you want to find out about color genetics or other genetics, you might want to visit this site: DebMark Rabbit Raising

NOTE: DO NOT expect immediate results! It took me over one and a half years to get the only Grand Champion I have, and it took me a year and half to REALLY know what a good Polish was. If you think you know everything, look again.

On to Mating!

Thursday, May 6, 2010

NETHERLAND DWARF

Assalamualaikum...

Arini den telah mendapat sampel seekor ND betina berumur 2 bulan berwarna putih. Kecil molek dan cute. Dan semperna arini, den pun bagila nama dia Arini.....hehehe....




Insya Allah dalam seminggu dua mendatang ni, beberapa pasang ND yang berbagai warna
akan menghiasi sangkar-sangkar di


SHAMZA RABBIT HUTCH





Tuesday, May 4, 2010

PEMBERITAHUAN AKHIR

Assalamualaikum......

Post kali ini just nak inform kepada rakan-rakan sekelian bahawasanya tawaran harga RM 50 bagi arnab pedaging berumur 50 hari akan berakhir pada penghujung minggu ini, iaitu pada 9hb. Mei 2010. Selepas tarikh tersebut, harga bagi seekor arnab pedaging berumur 50 hari akan kembali ke harga asal RM 80 ke 100 seekor bergantung pada saiz dan jenis.

Di sini saya ingin merakam jutaan terima kasih dan setinggi penghargaan di atas segala sokongan dan pembelian tuan-tuan sekelian. Insya Allah....sekiranya tiada sebarang aral melintang......nantikan jualan "Pet Mania" dari saya yang belum diputuskan tarikhnya.

Rentetan dengan masa yang tidak seberapa ini, di sini ditawarkan "stock clearance" bagi arnab-arnab yang dipaparkan di bawah. Apa yang ditawarkan di dalam gambar-gambar ini, itulah yang tuan-tuan perolehi dan tawaran harga dan bakanya terhad pada yang di dalam gambar ini sahaja.


CHINCHILLA - 4 BULAN
RM 420 SEPASANG

CHINCHILLA - 5 BULAN
RM 460 SEPASANG

JANTAN NEW ZEALAND WHITE - 5 BULAN
RM 230 SEEKOR

JANTAN-JANTAN PEDAGING - 50 HARI
RM 45 SEEKOR

LION HEAD JANTAN - 6 BULAN
RM 90 SEEKOR

NEW ZEALAND WHITE - 2 BULAN SETENGAH
RM 300 SEPASANG

SILA HUBUNGI SAYA SEGERA UNTUK SEBARANG PERTANYAAN ATAU TEMPAHAN. STOK TERHAD KEPADA YANG DI DALAM GAMBAR INI SAHAJA. SIAPA CEPAT DIA PUNYA. HUBUNGI DEN DI 012-911 6165. HISHAM