SELAMAT DATANG

Sunday, October 30, 2011

NAK CLEAR HABIS

Assalamualaikum......

Kepada sesiapo hok nak beli arnab-arnab berikut, maghi la rumah ambo petang sok dalam pukul 2.30 ke pukul 3.30 atau 6.30 ke 7.30. Ambo nak clear habih blako...... Takdhe nak kejar doh antaro arnab dengan Nasi Dagang n Nasi Kerabu..... Kalu nak mari beli, sms atau talipon ambo bangat-bangat la di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka shamza). Antaro hok tinggal nak di let go....

1. Holland Lop jantan umur setahun - RM 290

2. Pasangan dio, Mix Lop betina umur 7 bulan - RM 80

3. Flemish Giant jantan umur 4 bulan - RM 120

4. NZW jantan umur 2 bulan lebih - RM 60

5. Angora jantan umur 3 bulan - RM 60


Kalu ado hok nak borong blako, ambo we harga diskaun RM 500 belako + Nasi Dagang sebungkuh...... Tok leh nak cari doh harga ni kalu gi keda kopi Tok Mek pun.....


Thursday, October 27, 2011

TEMPAHAN KETUPAT SOTONG DAN LADA SOLOK ORIGINAL KELANTAN

Assalamualaikum.......

Kepada sesiapa yang ingin membuat tempahan Menu Ketupat Sotong dan Lada Solok Original Kelantan, bolehlah menghubungi saya di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka SHAMZA CATERING). Harga yang ditawarkan adalah seperti berikut:

KETUPAT SOTONG ORIGINAL KELANTAN

1. Seekor Sotong Ketupat = RM 2.00.

LADA SOLOK ORIGINAL KELANTAN

1. Sebiji Lada Solok berintikan Sambal kelapa dan ikan = RM 2.00.

TEMPAHAN NASI KERABU ORIGINAL KELANTAN



Assalamualaikum........


Kepada sesiapa yang ingin membuat tempahan hidangan atau jamuan bermenukan Nasi Kerabu Kelantan, saya menawarkan pakej berikut. Tempahan perlu dibuat 2 ke 3 hari sebelum penghantaran/venue.


NASI KERABU BERLAUKKAN AYAM GORENG BEREMPAH

Kandungan:

1. Nasi Kerabu(Beras Unggu)

2. Ayam Goreng Berempah

3. Sambal Kelapa + Ikan

4. Ulaman

5. Sambal Tumis

6. Budu

7. Keropok Goreng

Harga 1 Kepala = RM 4.50


NASI DAGANG BERLAUKKAN IKAN GORENG BERTEPUNG

Kandungan:

1. Nasi Kerabu

2. Ikan Goreng Tepung

3. Sambal Kelapa + Ikan


4. Ulaman

5. Sambal Tumis

6. Budu

7. Keropok

Harga 1 Kepala = RM 4.00


Jika ada yang berminat, sila hubungi saya di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka SHAMZA CATERING) berlokasi di No. 13, Taman Bangi Indah, Jalan Bangi Indah 7, Pekan Bangi Lama, Kajang, Selangor. Bagi yang ingin merasanya terlebih dahulu, tuan-tuan boleh datang ke Pasar Bandar Baru Bangi di Seksyen 1 kerana setiap pagi Sabtu dan Ahad serta cuti umum, saya ada meniaga Nasi Dagang dan Nasi Kerabu bermula jam 8 pagi sehingga 12 tengahari.



TEMPAHAN NASI DAGANG ORIGINAL KELANTAN

Assalamualaikum........

Kepada sesiapa yang ingin membuat tempahan hidangan atau jamuan bermenukan Nasi Dagang Kelantan, saya menawarkan pakej berikut. Tempahan perlu dibuat 2 ke 3 hari sebelum penghantaran/venue.


NASI DAGANG BERLAUKKAN GULAI KARI AYAM

Kandungan:

1. Nasi Dagang(Beras Nasi Dagang)

2. Gulai Kari Ayam

3. Sambal Kelapa + Ikan

4. Telur Rebus separuh bahagian

Harga 1 Kepala = RM 4.50


NASI DAGANG BERLAUKKAN GULAI LEMAK KUNING IKAN TONGKOL

Kandungan:

1. Nasi Dagang

2. Gulai Lemak Ikan Tongkol

3. Sambal Kelapa + Ikan

4. Telur Rebus separuh bahagian

Harga 1 Kepala = RM 4.00

Jika ada yang berminat, sila hubungi saya di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka SHAMZA CATERING) berlokasi di No. 13, Taman Bangi Indah, Jalan Bangi Indah 7, Pekan Bangi Lama, Kajang, Selangor. Bagi yang ingin merasanya terlebih dahulu, tuan-tuan boleh datang ke Pasar Bandar Baru Bangi di Seksyen 1 kerana setiap pagi Sabtu dan Ahad serta cuti umum, saya ada meniaga Nasi Dagang dan Nasi Kerabu bermula jam 8 pagi sehingga 12 tengahari.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

BREEDING RABBITS



DebMark Rabbit Education Resource

Breeding Rabbits



Definitions

* A female rabbit is called a doe. A male rabbit is called a buck.

* When referring to the parents of a rabbit, the mother is called the dam, and the father is called the sire.

* When you mate two rabbits together, this is called breeding.

* When you check to see if the doe is pregnant or when you breed her again before she is due to give birth, this is called testing.

* When you put a box in the hutch that is lined with hay, this is called nesting.

* When the doe gives birth, this is called kindling.

* The period of time between breeding and kindling is called the gestation period.

* She gives birth to a bunch of bunnies called kits. This bunch of bunnies is called a litter.

* When you take the young rabbits away from the mother, this is called weaning.


Introduction

A small breed doe is normally ready to mate when she is 5 months old, and a buck is ready at 6 months. The medium size doe is ready to breed when she is 6 months old and the buck at 7 months. The heavy breed doe is ready at 8 months and the buck is ready at 9 months.

It's usually a good idea to select rabbits to breed whose ancestry has evidence of good productivity and good genetics. That's where productivity records and pedigrees listing show winnings come in handy. Keep productivity and show records of your herd just for this purpose.

You may keep a ratio of one buck to 10 does if you wish. The buck may be bred up to 7 times a week effectively. Sometimes, you can use the buck twice in one day. The most I use a buck is twice a week.

Keep the following principles in mind when you want to breed your rabbits:

* Only mate rabbits of the same breed. See Rabbit Raising - The Basics. Exceptions to this include breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation. You cannot sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood in its background going back 4 generations.

* Do not keep more than one rabbit in each cage when the rabbit is 3 months or older. Rabbits mature faster when alone, do not fight, and do not breed, thus eliminating unexpected results.

* Before breeding, check the bottom of the cage of both the doe and buck for evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Do not breed the rabbit having this condition until it has been adequately treated. Also check the genitals of both rabbits for any signs of disease or infection (for example, extreme redness, discharge, sores or scabbiness). Refer to the ARBA Official Guidebook section on diseases.

* When ready to breed the doe, take it to the buck's cage. Never bring the buck to the doe's cage. The reason for this is that the buck has less tendency to breed in the doe's cage. He's too busy sniffing around the cage.

* Some leave the doe with the buck overnight. Others put the doe in, watch it, and when they have mated, remove the doe. If you do the latter, put the doe back in with the buck 1 to 12 hours after the initial breeding. This will increase the likelihood of pregnancy and may increase the number of offspring.

* Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. You should test her for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. There are two ways to do this. The overall preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. The other method is not only more risky but also more inaccurate. This method is to mate the doe with the buck again. This can cause problems because the doe has two uterine horns, each of which can carry babies. It is possible for one horn to be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uteri to not form right, causing her to pass blobs instead of babies at the date of kindling. There is also a chance these "mummified" blobs could cause complications leading to the death of the doe.

* You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter.


Who Can Be Bred To Whom?

Never breed brothers to sisters. Other combinations are fine: father-to-daughter, mother-to-son, cousins, etc. Until you gain some knowledge as to how genetics works with inbreeding, I would recommend your not breeding closely related pairs.

As mentioned before, mate the same breeds together unless you are trying to get meat rabbits with certain characteristics or you are doing genetic experiments or you don't care about the fate of the offspring. You cannot sell the offspring as pedigree if their ancestry is not of the same breed going back four generations.

You may mate rabbits of the same breed having different colors. Keep in mind, though, that there are many combinations of possibilities when mixing colors. Some of the offspring may have colors that are not recognized by ARBA. It is usually best to mate rabbits having the same color to start off with until you know more about how the colors interact. See the section on genetics for more information on colors. Also, join the national specialty group for the breed you are interested in raising. They usually have literature on how to develop the best color, size, and shape of your rabbit.

Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects such as tooth malocclusion (wolf teeth) or moon eye (cloudy cornea), or produces offspring whose skull does not come together (except in dwarfs, where approximately 25% are born too small with deformed head or legs - the offspring are called peanuts). Determine whether the sire or dam is responsible for passing the genetic defect and eliminate it for breeding purposes.

Strive to meet the perfect standard for the breed you are mating. Order the ARBA Standard of Perfection Booklet to know exactly what is expected of the breed. Also, join the national association for that breed to get their manual on the breed. Check out the ARBA web page for a list of associations. This will show you how to improve your herd.


Evaluating A Rabbit's Reproductive Life

A rabbit may normally start breeding at the age of 6 months for the small to medium size breeds and 8 to 9 months for the heavy breeds. The gestation period (time between breeding and kindling) is 31 days. After the doe has kindled, I normally re-breed her at 6 weeks and wean the litter at 5-7 weeks. This cycle continues until she is about 4 years old or until her production is unsatisfactory.

I review the herd records every quarter to determine which rabbits are not producing up to par and eliminate them. In October through December, some rabbits go into what is called moulting. At this period, many do not conceive. If you have lights on all the time in your rabbitry, this will help. Rabbits are like chickens that lay eggs only if there is enough light. Raising most of my rabbits outside, I take this problem into consideration when evaluating them. Also, if it gets too hot in the summer, especially for those who live in the Southern U.S., the buck produces less viable sperm and the conception rate goes down. Some people keep their bucks air conditioned to keep the conception rate high.

My minimum standard for a doe is that she produce at least the following number of rabbits per year all the way to weaning:

* Dwarfs: 8
* Small Breeds: 14
* Medium Breeds: 16
* Meat Type: 20
* Giants: 16


SIGNS OF RABBIT PREGNANCY

Determining if your female rabbit (doe) is pregnant can be difficult. There are some signs to look out for that may suggest pregnancy, but even then there's no guarantee of pregnancy. Expert rabbit breeders may more readily tell the difference, but nothing is absolute until you wait out the entire gestation period or 35 days.

Food

    • You may see that the doe is drinking and eating more than usual.

    Temperament

    • During the second week of pregnancy, the rabbit may act out of character. This will appear as biting or scratching people and items that she normally would not.

    Abdomen

    • The sign of a bigger belly does not appear until the third week of pregnancy. You can gently palpate the rabbit's lower abdomen to feel for soft olive-sized balls that would indicate that there are fetuses.

    Nesting

    • When it nears birthing time, the doe will start to make a nest. Don't be alarmed if she pulls her own fur to line it.

    False Pregnancy

    • The above signs may indicate pregnancy, or they can indicate a "false pregnancy" due to hormonal fluctuations in the rabbit that can make her think she's pregnant.

Gathering and Digging
  • Pregnant does often gather noticeable amounts of hay in their mouths in order to build a nest for their young. In addition, pregnant rabbits sometimes dig in their food water bowls, once again as a means to build a nest.

Weight Gain

  • Though does gain for other reasons, a pronounced addition of weight in the abdomen is an indication of pregnancy.

Plucking

  • A pregnant doe sometimes plucks fur from her legs, abdomen and back as pregnancy progresses toward the time of delivery.

Movement and Palpitation

  • Between days 11 to 15 and then again around day 27, the developing fetuses are palpable in the mother's abdomen. During the days immediately preceding delivery, the movements of the fetuses are visible as a wriggling in the doe's abdomen.