SELAMAT DATANG

Saturday, May 28, 2011

RABBIT DIET

Feeding Your Pet Bunny for a Long Healthy Life
by Alexandra Logsdon in consultation with Dr. Ann McDowell, DVM

Most people think that rabbit pellets were especially formulated for their pet rabbit, but this is not the case. Pellets were originally formulated as a convenient and economical way to promote quick growth and weight gain in commercial rabbits raised for food and fur. Our rabbits are our friends and companions and we want them to live long, healthy lives. This is why it is crucial that we learn about and understand their dietary needs.
Rabbits have a unique and delicate digestive system and it is important to take this into consideration when planning their meals. It is a system that is designed to take both energy and nutrients from food that is low in both, so providing a rabbit with a high fat/high protein, low fiber diet (pellets alone, for example) is a sure ticket to bad health and even a shortened life span. A healthy rabbit who is spayed or neutered, gets a proper diet and lives inside the home as a part of the family has a life span of eight to thirteen years.

Rabbit Digestion
Digestion begins in the mouth. The food is mashed up by the teeth and mixed with saliva, which contains proteins that begin breaking down the food. When the food is swallowed it enters the stomach where it is mixed with stomach acid and digestive enzymes, which continue the digestion process. It then moves out of the stomach into the small intestine where nutrients are absorbed into the body, and then it continues on into the large intestine where the food particles are sorted by size. The larger particles of indigestible fiber drive the smaller fragments of digestible fiber backwards into the cecum, which is a large blind-ended sac located at the junction of the small and large intestines. The indigestible particles are then passed out in the fecal pellets (regular poop) and the cecum begins the fermentation process that will produce what is commonly referred to as night feces or cecotropes, which a rabbit will ingest directly from the anus. You can tell the difference between normal feces and cecotrophes by their soft, shiny clumped texture and often more pungent odor.

A rabbit's cecum maintains a delicate mix of protozoa, yeast and good bacteria, which is crucial to keeping your rabbit healthy. If something upsets the delicate bacterial balance (such as stress; some oral antibiotics such as penicillin & related drugs; a high fat, low fiber diet; too many carbohydrates, etc.), bad bacteria will begin to grow. These bad bacteria produce toxins that can be harmful or fatal to your rabbit. On the other hand, the products of good cecal fermentation are crucial to healthy gut flora, because through coprophagy, the oral re-ingestion of the cecal pellets produced by this fermentation process, the rabbit can absorb by normal digestion the special nutrients and vitamins contained in the cecal pellets. Some evidence suggests that bacteria from these [re-ingested] cecal pellets help the food digest while in the stomach (Laura Tessmer, B.Sc. and Susan Smith, Ph.D: Rabbit Nutrition 1998).

The Importance of Fiber and a Proper Diet
When your rabbit is fed an improper diet that is, one that does not contain an adequate amount of [indigestible] fiber or one that is too high in carbohydrates the Gastro-Intestinal (GI) tract cannot function properly and it begins to shut down, causing various degrees of what is called GI stasis. GI stasis, if not taken care of immediately, can cause your rabbit to die a very painful death.

So what is GI stasis really? When the speed with which material moves through the GIT is altered it can affect how quickly the stomach and cecum empty. When this happens we often see a dramatic decrease in the rabbit's appetite for both food and water, which only furthers the problem: The body still needs water to function so it takes it from the stomach and cecum, causing the contents of the entire GI tract (food, hair from grooming, etc.) to become further dehydrated and impacted. The bunny is then unable to pass the mass of food/hair in the stomach, feels full, uncomfortable and often gassy (due to the build-up of the bad bacteria in the cecum), which only adds to his "I don't want to eat" mentality! A rabbit in GI stasis will often stop eating, become anorexic and die. When a rabbit dies from GI stasis and its related problems it is most often due to hepatic lipidosis or Fatty Liver Disease, which is caused by the toxins produced by the bad bacteria in the cecum.

In most cases, especially those caught early-on by observant owners, GI stasis can be reversed with time, patience and good advice from your rabbit vet. But our goal is to prevent it from happening at all.

How Will I Know if My Rabbit is Having Problems?
Check the feces while cleaning the litter box. A rabbit's feces should be plentiful, round like peas and of a uniform size and shape. No feces or a lot fewer than usual, misshapen feces, or those strung together with hair ("pearls") may mean bunny needs to see a vet. If giving your rabbit hairball remedy (malt flavored, the same used for cats) one inch once or twice a day for three days doesn't clear up the problem, or if bunny stops eating or drinking or is in pain consult a vet immediately. If there are no feces for 12-24 hours contact your vet immediately. Never give babies under six months old hairball remedy without first consulting your rabbit vet.

While the use of hairball remedies as preventatives can be helpful, there is some question as to how helpful or harmful it is to administer them to rabbits already in GI stasis. If the intestinal contents are severely dehydrated and brick-hard (yes, we have seen this!), a coating of vaseline-like substance over them may merely impede their re-hydration and make it more difficult for the mass to break up and begin passing. For this reason, it is probably wise to concentrate on re-hydrating the intestinal contents before using petroleum-based laxatives, if they are to be used at all (Krempels, Dana M., PhD and Kelleher, Susan, DVM. GastroIntestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer. 1997.). And again, if your rabbit is experiencing GI stasis s/he needs to be seen by a good rabbit vet right away.

At Zooh Corner, we generally administer one inch of hairball remedy once or twice a week as a preventative measure; during a heavy shed we may offer a rabbit a bit more, and we sometimes increase the daily greens ration a bit and/or rinse the produce directly before serving it in order to get more water into the bunny's system. This, in addition to a proper diet and plenty of fun and exercise, as well as close observation of the litter box and the general behavior and condition of the rabbits goes a long away towards keeping bunny GI tracts healthy and happy.

Please take note: This situation, GI Stasis, is often misdiagnosed as "a hairball." And while the rabbit may indeed have a hair/food mass in his stomach, it is in fact a result of GI stasis, not the cause. Vet intervention is always called for when this sort of situation presents itself. Not all vets know and see rabbits, however, so it is important that you locate a good rabbit vet in your area before an emergency arises. Your rabbit-savvy vet will be able to examine your pet and tell you whether it is indeed GI stasis, or if there is an obstruction of some sort and s/he will then be able to present you with the proper course of action.

Prevention is Definitely Worth a Pound of Cure: The Basic Rabbit Diet

Pellets and Hay: For rabbits under one year old free feed (as much as they want) a fresh, plain, high fiber (18-20%), mid-range protein (14% - 16%) pellet. Adult rabbits should get 1/4 cup of low protein (10% or lower), high fiber pellets PER DAY, per five (5) pounds of optimum* body weight. If you have a rabbit that is difficult to keep weight on or off, consult your vet. Do not feed your rabbit any of the many commercial pellet mixes that contain seeds, dried fruit or colored cereals. These commercial treat foods are geared to look pleasing to us humans, but they are definitely not in the best health interests of your pet rabbit. Rabbits are not seed, fruit or cereal eaters by nature and these types of junk foods are high in sugars and carbohydrates, which as we talked about earlier can lead to an overgrowth of bad bacteria.

Hay is the most important factor in your rabbit's diet.
It is his prime source of fiber, which is instrumental in keeping the gut in good working order. Hay has the added benefits of being good entertainment for your bunny, they love to rearrange it, dig it up and place it "just so," as well as a great source of chewing material which is necessary to keeping the teeth healthy. A rabbit's teeth grow continuously throughout his life and it is essential that we provide them with safe chewing materials such as hay and wooden chew toys to help keep them filed down. A rabbit with tooth problems is a rabbit on his way to having GI problems as well. Fresh timothy, oat and other grass hays should be available to all bunnies all the time. Alfalfa hay, which is higher in calories as well as calcium (which can cause kidney or bladder problems(sludge) in older rabbits) is okay to feed to physically fit bunnies under the age of one, but should be avoided for the average healthy, mature house rabbit. On the other hand, feeding alfalfa to younger bunnies may make it more difficult to switch over to the lower protein/calcium grass hays when they get older. We start all bunnies off with the grass hays; as they are getting a healthy alfalfa-based pellet, we don't feel the alfalfa hay is needed. Some rabbits have higher protein needs (older or sick rabbits, angoras, etc.) and may also need the alfalfa hay. Again, consult your vet with all special dietary questions. At Zooh Corner we feed a mixture of oat and timothy hay, as well as orchard grass and our seasonal "ZoohMix" (a blend of oat, wheat and barley hays) to bunnies of all ages, unless they are on special, vet prescribed diets. We feel that a variety of tastes encourages the bunnies to eat more hay, and the variety of nutrients may be beneficial. Certainly no harm is done! Anything to encourage more fiber consumption!
It is best to avoid purchasing pellets and hays from grocery stores and pet store chains, as the feed can sit on the shelves or in storage for months, which makes it stale and lacking in proper nutrient values. You can usually purchase good quality pellets (OxBow, Purina High Fiber…) and hays from local feed stores, or online from our store. Some rabbit vets also sell high quality pellets, and often, local rabbit rescues will sell hays and pellets to help supplement the high costs of rescue (what we do).

Vegetables and Fruit: It is important to feed your rabbit a daily variety of fresh vegetables to help balance out the nutritional needs in his diet. Feed two to four cups of fresh vegetables for each five pounds of optimum body weight. All vegetables should be fresh, washed and organic whenever possible. (Note: Carrot tops & radish tops should be organic. Humans do not generally consume the tops of these vegetables, so little consideration is given to what pesticides are sprayed on them and they could be very dangerous or fatal to your rabbit.) To make sure your rabbit gets the necessary nutrients offer him at least three different vegetables daily (from our list of vegetables and fruits at the bottom of this page) and make sure one or more contain Vitamin A (noted with *).

While you may occasionally feed your rabbit a bit of fruit, it is extremely important that you limit their intake to no more than one or two tablespoons of high fiber fruits (pears, apples, tomatoes...) per five pounds of optimum body weight, one or two times a week . Never give fruit to dieting bunnies. Too much sugar can make your bunny fat, because excess energy (a by-product of sugar consumption) is converted to - fat!

Feeding your rabbit a limited amount of high fiber pellets, abundant fresh grass hays and a daily assortment of fresh vegetables is a key factor in keeping your rabbit healthy. Keep in mind that time balance is just as important to your rabbit's diet as is nutritional balance. It is important to divide the pellets and vegetables between the morning and evening meals, while having hay and fresh water available at all times. And remember, exercise is just as important as diet in keeping the rabbit [gut] functioning and healthy. A rabbit should get a minimum of 3 - 5 hours out of cage exercise every day. Take all dietary changes slowly. Quick changes to the diet can cause diarrhea or an overgrowth of that bad bacteria in the gut. Also keep in mind that different rabbits have different dietary needs. Younger rabbits, elderly rabbits, smaller breeds such as the Netherlands Dwarf, large breeds like the Flemish Giant and long haired rabbits all have different needs and you should consult your Rabbit Vet for more specific information.

*Optimum body weight is how much your rabbit should weigh, not always how much she does weigh.

VEGETABLES (AND FRUITS) THAT ARE GOOD FOR YOUR BUNNY

VEGETABLES FRUIT

NOTE: At least three different vegetables a day are recommended - any combination of lettuces counts as ONE veggie for that day)

Alfalfa, Radish And Clover Sprouts
Asparagus
Basil
Beet Greens1
Bok Choy
Broccoli1,2
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots And Tops1
Chard
Chicory Greens3
Cilantro
Clover
Collard Greens3
Dandelion Greens (Pesticide Free!)
Eggplant
Endive
Escarole
Grass - Freshly Cut From Your Backyard,
If You Are Sure There Are No Chemicals, Fertilizers, Poisons (Park Grass Usually Has One Or All Of These)
Kale3,4
Mint
Mustard Greens
Mustard Spinach3
Okra Leaves
Parsley1
Pea Pods (A.K.A. Chinese Pea Pods)1
Peppermint Leaves
Peppers (green, red, yellow...)
Pumpkin Leaves
Radicchio
Radish Tops
Raspberry Leaves
Squash: Zucchini, Yellow, Butternut, Pumpkin
Turnip Greens3
Various Lettuces, Avoid Very Light Hearts: Romaine, Butter, Green Leaf, Boston, Bibb, Arugula... No Iceberg
Watercress1
Wheat Grass

NOTE: Feed only once or twice a week in small amounts - NO seeds or pits! Sugary fruits, such as bananas and grapes should be fed only as occasional treats, and NO fruit should be fed to rabbits who are overweight.

Apple
Blackberries
Blueberry
Pineapple
Melon
Papaya
Peach
Plum
Pears
Raspberries
Strawberries

NO GRAINS, LEGUMES OR NUTS! These are not natural foods for rabbits and they can be very dangerous to gut function.

1 Good source of vitamin A, feed at least one daily

2 Some bunnies may find this a rather "gassy" veggie. If diarrhea occurs, remove from diet.

3 These veggies are higher in calcium, use sparingly, once or twice a week. For older buns, or those with bladder or kidney problems, avoid, unless otherwise directed by your rabbit vet.

4 High in either oxalates or goitrogens, which can cause or exacerbate sludging, and other calcium/kidney problems. Use sparingly!

References

  1. Cheeke, Peter R. Rabbit Feeding and Nutrition. Orlando: Academic Press, 1987.
  2. Jenkins, Jeffrey R., DVM. Feeding Recommendations for the House Rabbit. The Veterinary Clinics of North America, 1999.
  3. Krempels, Dana M., PhD. GastroIntestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer. 1997.
  4. Brown, Susan, DVM. Sluggish Motility in the Gastrointestinal Tract. Hand-out. Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital, Westchester, Ill.
Dr. Ann McDowell is a small animal and exotics vet at Chaparral Pet Hospital in Claremont, California.

I would also like to thank the House Rabbit Society for their invaluable contributions to rabbit veterinary medicine, as well as for their endless information on general rabbit care.



RABBIT NUTRITION


Rabbit nutrition

That famous bunny named Bugs may have lived by carrots alone, but real rabbits are a bit more demanding. As a responsible owner, you should know that there are three basic components of your vegetarian pet's diet:

  1. Hay
  2. Pellets
  3. Fresh vegetables

Once you've learned the right kinds and amounts of these foods to offer, meeting your bunny's nutritional needs is as easy as one, two, three.

Rabbits need hay

Heard that hay is for horses? Well, it's just as important for rabbits, too. This non-fattening food is essential for the proper functioning of your pet's digestive system and reduces the danger of hairballs. Unlimited fresh timothy, grass or oat hay should be available to your rabbit at all times, so be sure to fill your pet's hay rack every morning so he can nibble throughout the day. Whatever kind of hay you choose, watch out for any mold or spoilage. Fresh hay smells sweet and is light green in color.

Rabbits need pellets

Your bunny will also need a ration of good-quality pellets. Opt for a formula with 15 to 19 percent protein and 18 percent fiber. To ensure that the pellets are as fresh as possible, buy only what you'll need for about six weeks at a time. The amount you feed depends on your rabbit's size, age and level of activity. Bunnies under the age of 7 months can have as much as they like; after that, experts recommend 1/4 cup of pellets daily for two- to five-pound rabbits, and up to 1/2 cup per six pounds of body weight for bigger buns. Your pet's food bowl should be of the weighted metal or sturdy ceramic variety.

Rabbits need fresh vegetables

Fresh vegetables make up the third component of your pet's diet. He'll appreciate a variety of greens, and they're great for him, too. Good choices include:

  • Dark leaf lettuces
  • Collard greens
  • Turnip greens
  • Carrot tops
  • Green peppers
  • Parsley
  • Celery

Experts recommend a minimum of two cups of vegetables per six pounds of bunny; you may need to adjust that accordingly, depending on your pet's size. Be sure to wash all fresh foods first, and make sure everything's chopped up nice and small.

Fresh fruit makes a delicious treat for your pet in limited quantities. We suggest one tablespoon per four pounds of adult rabbit. Try the following:

  • Berries
  • Apples
  • Bananas
  • Plums
  • Peaches
  • Melons

Do not offer your pet bread or other human foods that are high in carbs, as these can cause intestinal problems.

The importance of water

Rabbits are big on water, and some can drink almost a quart a day. Your pet should have access to fresh, clean water at all times. A bottle that attaches to the side of the cage works best, and be sure to fill it daily.

If you provide a high-quality diet as outlined here, there's no need for vitamins or other additives. And your pet has a very unique way of supplementing his diet. Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eating his feces. This may seem strange or even unsanitary to you, but it is perfectly normal and, in fact, perfectly healthy! The small, soft pellets contain nutrients that aid in digestion.



Thursday, May 19, 2011

ARNAB HIAS DAN PEDAGING UNTUK DIMILIKI

Assalamualaikum.....

Berikut ini dipaparkan beberapa jenis anak-anak arnab yang comel-comel untuk dijual kepada rakan-rakan yang berminat. Kalau yang minat Baka Hias, ada Baka Hias. Kalau ada yang berminat baka Pedaging, ada Baka Pedaging.

Kalau ada yang berminat tu, silalah hubungi den di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka Shamza) atau leh datang ke rumah den di Taman Bangi Indah, Pekan Bangi Lama. Tapi sebelum datang tu, tipon atau sms la dulu.



TEDDY BEAR
UMUR 40 HARI
RM 180 SEEKOR

NETHERLAND DWARF
UMUR 40 HARI
RM 180 SEEKOR
RM 350 SEPASANG

STANDARD REX - BETINA
UMUR 3 B ULAN
RM 250

LIONHEAD
UMUR 45 HARI
RM 45 SEEKOR

PEDAGING
(NZW, CHINCHILLA, FLEMISH DAN DUTCH)
UMUR 45 HARI
RM 50 SEEKOR

CHINCHILLA
UMUR 2 BULAN
RM 80 SEEKOR

DUTCH
UMUR 2 BULAN
RM 80 SEEKOR

FLEMISH GIANT
UMUR 2 BULAN
RM 80 SEEKOR

NEW ZEALAND WHITE
UMUR 2 BULAN
RM 80 SEEKOR



Tuesday, May 17, 2011

STOK TENGAH BANYAK

Assalamualaikum....

Kepada rakan-rakan yang ingin memiliki anak-anak arnab Lionhead dan Baka-baka Pedaging seperti NZW, Chinchilla dan Dutch berumur sekitar 45 hari (cerai susu), bolehlah menghubungi den segera di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka Shamza).

Manakala bagi yang tinggal berdekatan Bangi, bolehlah datang membelinya di Pasar Bandar Baru Bangi setiap pagi Sabtu dan Ahad bermula jam 8.30 pagi ke 11.00 pagi. Jika ada yang memerlukan sangkar atau peralatan lain, bolehlah smskan kepada den untuk diambil pada hari tersebut. Bagi yang hendak datang ambil di rumah atau memerlukan penghantaranpun, silalah sms kepada den terlebih dahulu sebelum datang.



Saturday, May 14, 2011

MENIAGA ARNAB, POKOK-POKOK DAN BAJA ORGANIK DI PASAR BANDAR BARU BANGILA PULAK

Assalamualaikum...........

Setelah sekian lama dok meniaga di internet sahaja, maka pada pagi tadi (Sabtu, 14hb. Mei 2011), den menguatkan tekad untuk cuba meniaga semula di tempat awam. Dan pada pagi tadi, bertempat di Pasar Bandar Baru Bangi, den pun mencuba berniaga semula. Untuk hari pertama tadi, den hanya membawa pokok-pokok herba seperti Mas Cotek, Mahkota Dewa, Kacip Fatimah, Tongkat Ali, Pokok Salam dan juga pokok anggur baka Maskut Hamburg serta IAC, pokok cili besar serta padi, pokok Laici dan beberapa lagi. Dan tidak lupa juga Baja Agro Organik. Alhamdulillah.......tanpa diduga, sambutannya amat menggalakkan juga.

Rentetan daripada itu, maka pada hari esok, 15hb. Mei 2011, den bercadang untuk membawa beberapa ekor arnab juga untuk dijual. Jadi kepada sesiapa yang berminat bolehlah datang menjenguknya. Tapi takdala bawa banyak sangat, al-maklum lori serbaguna den, Perodua Kancil bukannya besor sangat.

Jadi pada esok pagi, den bercadang untuk membawa arnab-arnab berikut. Kepada yang berminat, bolehlah sms atau talipon den di 012-911 6165(Hisham):



BETINA

JANTAN

ARNAB LIONHEAD
UMUR 45 HARI
RM 45 SEEKOR

TEDDY BEAR
UMUR 45 HARI
RM 160 SEEKOR

BAKA PEDAGING
(NZW, FLEMISH DAN CHINCHILLA)
UMUR 45 HARI
RM 50 SEEKOR


* Minta maaf visual kurang memuaskan sebab guna handphone je dan diambil di waktu malam.






Wednesday, May 11, 2011

CAUSES OF DIARRHEA IN RABBITS


Rabbits develop diarrhea for a number of different reasons. This condition can be mild to severe, depending on the cause. Watch your rabbit closely and report changes to your veterinarian. A change in diet or medications may be in order to help your rabbit regain intestinal balance. Avoid giving your bunny processed packaged food made for humans.


    Coccidia / Parasites

    • Coccidia are a type of parasite that causes diarrhea in rabbits. This particular parasite invades the cells of the rabbit's intestines. Coccidia are microscopic, unlike other parasites that can be seen, such as roundworms and tapeworms. Any type of parasites can cause diarrhea in rabbits. Diarrhea can cause sudden death in baby rabbits. Most infants die within a matter of hours after the first onset of severe diarrhea. If a baby rabbit shows any signs of diarrhea such as runny stool, along with lethargy, take your rabbit to an emergency veterinary clinic immediately.

    Obesity

    • Obesity can also cause diarrhea in rabbits. If you notice that your obese rabbit has diarrhea, consider putting her on a diet. You can gradually transition your rabbit from eating hard pellets to high-fiber greens or low-calorie pellets. Fresh herbs and carrots are also beneficial for an obese bunny. You can also cut down her portion sizes and give her small meals more frequently instead of larger meals less often.

    Weaning

    • Another cause of diarrhea in rabbits is weaning too young. A baby rabbit needs to receive nourishment from his mother's milk until his digestive system is mature. If a baby rabbit is weaned too quickly, he will develop diarrhea because his body is not truly ready for solid foods. A rabbit should not be weaned sooner than eight weeks.

      Unfortunately, many pet stores sell rabbits that are not ready to leave their mothers. These babies may die if they develop aggressive diarrhea or they will suffer with intestinal problems for the rest of their lives. Mother's milk is vital during those first few weeks of life because without it, the delicate limning of a rabbit's digestive system can become permanently damaged.

    Health Problems

    • Your rabbit can also develop diarrhea if she has an underlying medical condition such as arthritis or a nervous disorder. Like humans, rabbits suffer from cancer, anxiety and other conditions. The Pet Place website says that stress can also cause diarrhea. If your rabbit has experienced any trauma she can develop sensitivity to the stresses of daily life. She may not be able to be in the same cage with another rabbit or she may seek to be with other rabbits because she is afraid to be alone. Every rabbit handles anxiety differently.

Monday, May 9, 2011

INDUK-INDUK HENDAK DIJUAL

Assalamualaikum......

Berikut ini ada beberapa induk yang hendak dijual kepada sesiapa yang berminat disebabkan den hendak fokus kepada beberapa jenis baka sahaja. Jika ada yang berminat tu, bolehlah menghubungi den segera di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka Shamza).



INDO ND - PEJANTAN
UMUR 8 BULAN
RM 188

LIONHEAD - PASANGAN KEKASIH
UMUR - 9 BULAN
RM 288 SEPASANG

TEDDY BEAR - BETINA DAN LIONHEAD - JANTAN
UMUR 10 BULAN
RM 288 SEPASANG

Saturday, May 7, 2011

ARNAB BAKA PEDAGING

Assalamualaikum

Untuk makluman rakan-rakan, stok arnab pedaging masih terbuka untuk pembelian atau tempahan sehingga diberitahu kelak. Cepat!! Cepat!! Stok yang ada terhad.

Hubungi saya segera di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka Shamza).


BAKA-BAKA PEDAGING


NEW ZEALAND WHITE

CHINCHILLA

FLEMISH GIANT
(out of stock)

HOTOT

HARGA TAWARAN

CERAI SUSU - RM 50 SEEKOR
2 BULAN - RM 80 SEEKOR
3 BULAN - RM 140 SEEKOR
6 BULAN - RM 220 SEEKOR




Friday, May 6, 2011

HOLLAND LOP

Assalamualaikum....

Berikut ini ada 2 pasang anak arnab Holland Lop berumur 2 bulan yang hendak dijual kepada sesiapa yang berminat untuk memilikinya. Cute, menarik dan lincah-lincah diarang ni....

Kepada sesiapa yang berminat tu.....leh la hubungi den segera di 012-911 6165 (Hisham aka Shamza). Harga yang ditawarkan sekitar RM 220 seekor.



JANTAN
LAHIR - 8HB. MAC 2011


BETINA
LAHIR - 15HB. MAC 2011


PUTERAKU DAH PULANG KE RUMAH - 5HB. MEI 2011

Assalamualaikum.....

Setelah 3 hari berada di Hospital Kajang, maka pada 5hb. Mei 2011, Muhammad Halim Yusoff pun menjejakkan tubuhnya ke rumah kami di Taman Bangi Indah, Pekan Bangi Lama. Alhamdulillah sewaktu berubah tempat tu tiada lah masalah sangat, cuma tang malam je asyik nak suh peluk dia....huhuhu...al-maka bergilir-gilirlah den dan isteri bersengkang mata menemankannya....takdala menangis, tapi nak orang bersembang ngan dia jerr.... Tapi anak punya pasal.....layan jer la.....hehehe.....lunyaila pipi dia den, isteri dan kakak-kakaknya cium....





Mmmuahhh......tak puas den cium.....

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

PUTERA KU SELAMAT LAHIR PADA 3HB. MEI 2011

Assalamualaikum.........

Syukur alhamdulillah tidak terkira ke Hadrat Illahi kerana pada pukul 9.00 pagi 3hb. Mei 2011 bersamaan hari Selasa, putera yang kami tunggu-tunggu selama ini telah selamat dilahirkan melalui pembedahan setelah berbagai-bagai dugaan yang kami tempuhi, terutama isteri den yang terkena kencing manis sewaktu mengandung serta kesakitan akibat kesan pembedahan lama. Bertempat di Hospital Kajang, tangisannya memecah kedinginan pagi sewaktu hujan renyai-renyai membasahi bumi.

Dengan berat 4 kg sewaktu dilahirkan, terkejut jugalah den sewaktu pertama kali mendukungnya untuk diazankan. Doa dipanjatkan ke Hadrat Illahi semoga Puteraku ini berserta ibunya sihat sejahteralah hendaknya.

Mengambil sempena nama bapa den dan bapa isteri den, maka kami menamakannya; MUHAMMAD HALIM YUSOFF BIN MOHD HISHAM.



POKOK CILI F1 LA BALIK

Assalamualaikum.......

Setelah sekian lama tak menanam cili, akhirnya sebulan yang lalu, den pun menanam cili la balik. Kalau dulu orang sibuk dengan fertigasi dan bermacam-macam lagi kaedah penanaman, untuk kali ni den cuba menggunakan Tinja Arnab yang dikompos beserta campuran baja organik yang den jual dahulu.

Mula menyemai kembali pada 1hb. April 2011 yang lalu dan kini pokok-pokok telah mula mengeluarkan bunga dan ada yang telah berputik buah. Tidaklah banyak yang den tanam, sekadar 12 pokok sahaja sebab hendak mengkaji keberkesanan menggunakan campuran kompos tinja arnab, baja organik dan tanah sebagai medium penanaman. Dan berdasarkan gambar yang den ambil pada 25hb. April 2011 yang lepas, diharap dapatlah rakan-rakan yang biasa dengan penanaman cili dan penghasilan baja organik, memberikan komen. Mungkin ianya tidaklah sehebat penggunaan baja fertigasi, tapi ianya organik.

Untuk makluman, pokok-pokok ini belum ada apa-apa penambahan baja semenjak dari mula diubah ke polibeg tersebut sehingga kini. Insya Allah, pada penghujung minggu ni, den akan update lagi gambar terbaru untuk menunjukkan buah yang terhasil.

Menyusul hasil dari percubaan tersebut, den telah menyemai benih cili padi pada 30hb. April 2011 yang lalu, yang mana tinggi anak pokok kini dalam setengah ke satu inci.